Summit of Ampersand Mountain

Summit of Ampersand Mountain

Sunday, December 28, 2014

Fishing in the Adirondacks

This blog has numerous very large blind-spots. I want to generate as much enthusiasm as possible for spending time in the Adirondacks with the articles that I write here, in particular among the group of people who will be joining us at White Pine Camp. In doing so, there is a strong bias toward activities and aspects of the Adirondacks that are particularly dear to me and gaping voids outside my typical sphere of activities. Probably one of the most famous activities in the Adirondacks that I have completely neglected until now is fishing.

Lower St. Regis Small Mouth Bass. Photo: adirondacklakes.com
With more than 3,000 lakes and 30,000 miles (48,000 km) of streams and rivers, the Adirondacks is said to be the premiere place to go for fishing in the northeastern United States. Our location at White Pine Camp is right in the heart of the Adirondack Lakes Region. Although not completely banned on Osgood Pond, the use of motorboats is not allowed at White Pine Camp. Still, the pond is seldom disturbed by motorboat use, and the few that we have seen were there for fishing, keeping the surroundings peaceful and comparatively quiet. The nearby St. Regis Canoe Area is guaranteed to be motorboat free:
The St. Regis Canoe Area is the only wilderness canoe area of its kind in the northeast, and the only designated canoe area in New York State. Closed to all forms of motorized boats and vehicles, it is a paddler's paradise, a place where anyone can seek renewal and inspiration in nature. 
The canoe area's expansive waterways are situated near the towns of Lake Clear and Saranac Inn, and include the headwaters of the west and middle branch of the St. Regis and Saranac Rivers, as well as 58 ponds, streams, lakes and rivers. Canoe routes are connected by carries, or portages where paddlers must exit the water and convey their kayak or canoe across land to the next body of water. Visitors can enjoy camping under the stars, fishing, paddling, hiking and swimming for free. There are 18 primitive campsites located around the shoreline, offering scenic views of the St. Regis Canoe Area's vast forests and distant Adirondack mountain peaks.
Free Fishing Guide

You can download a guide to fishing in the Adirondacks from the Adirondack Lakes website, here. If you don't want to sign-up to access the download (you need to register with your e-mail address), you can directly download the 2008 version of the guide (pdf, 48 pages, 17.5 MB) here.

Rules and Regulations

If you are over 16 years old, you will need to purchase a fishing license (available for 1 day, 7 days or for one year from date of purchase). The NY State Department of Environmental Conservation details the prices and regulations here. Near to White Pine Camp, you can purchase a license at:
- The Town of Brighton, 12 Co Rte 31, 12970, Phone: (518) 327-3202
Blue Line Sports, 81 Main St., Saranac Lake 12983, Phone: (518) 891-4680

Fishing Guide Service

For those who want to benefit from expert experience and equipment, Ed Kanze recommends Russell Trieller of Adirondack Fishing, Inc. He caters in particular to White Pine Camp guests, offering to pick up clients directly from the boathouse dock at camp. As impressive as I am told that the fishing on Osgood Pond is, I am guessing that the picture of the Halibut from his website, that I have inserted below, is from another body of water.

Halibut Catch. Photo from adirondackfishing.net

Saturday, December 20, 2014

My Week's "To Do" List for White Pine Camp

In earlier posts, I have discussed that there are so many fun things to do at White Pine Camp itself, that you could spend a delightful week there without ever leaving the camp's grounds. My own personal preference is to find a balance between activities at White Pine Camp, climbing a few mountains and doing other activities around the park. We like to alternate each day's focus between physically demanding activities - typically mountain climbing - and more relaxing activities.

Until now, I have resisted creating a list of "priorities" or even worse, a week-long activity list. As much as we love having a nice long list of things to do on vacation, it is at least as important for us to free ourselves from fixed schedules, agendas and strictly defined goals while we are on vacation. Our vacation is OUR time, and it is closely guarded.

The last thing I would want to do in creating a list of activities is to leave the impression that it represents what I want everyone to be doing during our week. No. If anything I write here sounds interesting and you are inspired to join us, that's great. If your preference is instead to kick back, drop your feet into Osgood Pond, read a book, take in the pine scented air - that's equally great. As the tongue-in-cheek title of this blog is "90th Birthday Get Together …," we are facing the reality that we are starting to get on in years. Accordingly, your preference might be to do something more ambitious still, like tackling Mt. Marcy in a day hike (15 miles RT, 3166 ft ascent, 6 to 7 hours one-way for an experienced hiker).

Finally, in writing down ideas about how I might like to spend a week at White Pine Camp, I disavow any responsibility for spending the week as outlined here. I am equally happy to be inspired by others ideas as well!  So, for what its worth, here is how a week at White Pine Camp might be spent.

Several Times During The Week

Trips to the Snake Pit!! Confused? See my earlier post on this subject to find out more.

Saturday

Check in is at 4:00 PM, so some of the activities will be pre check-in (info.: White Pine Camp Policies and Procedures).

Depending on how far we travel to get to White Pine Camp, we typically don't do much more than grocery shopping and getting settled in at camp. This year however, we may come to the Adirondacks before the beginning of our week at camp, so in addition to shopping, we might get in a moderate hike. Baker Mountain seems to be a perfect combination with shopping in Saranac Lake. The trailhead is right in the village and gives us a nice peek at the neighborhood.

- Link to Trail description

Excerpt of Saranac Lake 6er Trail Map, saranaclake6er.com
Link to entire map (pdf)
Sunday

I am looking forward to spending a day on the water. We have previously made our way up the Osgood River and paddled the channel to Jones Pond, but we have not yet succeeded in getting to Church Pond. This is directly accessible from Osgood Pond via a series of canals. On our previous attempt, we were defeated by headwinds and were eventually pushed all the way back to the channel leading to Jones Pond. This time, the plan is to get an early start, before the wind kicks up.

The ambitious goal would be to then travel via canoe to Jones Pond, keeping a lookout for Loons, Mergansers, Beaver Dams (ok, we won't have to look out for those, we will have to cross over them on the way to Jones Pond) and Eagles.

An alternative plan may be to take the short drive in the car to Adirondack Swim and Trip Camp (ASTC) which is on the eastern shore of Jones Pond. The latter option may actually be preferable as I have long neglected visiting friends at ASTC, and I think that a visit might be in order that extends past sunset. Learn more about my experiences as a child at ASTC from my previous post.

Graphic from http://adirondackexplorer.org
Monday

I have long had my eye on climbing Pitchoff Mountain, but haven't done this hike yet as the best way to do it is via a one way trail, with a car parked at each end. The folks at ASTC consider it one of their favorite short climbs. As you can see from their picture below, the summit gives a very rewarding view.

Summit of Pitchoff Mountain, photo from ASTC website
Pitchoff Mountain
Distance to trailhead from White Pine Camp: 31 mi / 47 min
Elevation: 3500 ft / 1067 m
Vertical ascent: 1300 ft / 396 m
Round trip distance: 5.2 mi / 8.4 km

If we are a very ambitious bunch, we might actually consider also climbing Porter Mountain, which has a trailhead right across the street from Pitchoff. Typically, Cascade and Porter are done together as they share the same trail for most of the ascent, with the summit of Porter forking off the main path toward the top. In all honesty, Cascade has the better view of the two, but to date we have been atop Cascade and not Porter, so Porter is higher on the priority list. A friend at White Pine Camp recommends an alternative approach to Porter via Blueberry Mountain - which would turn it into a day trip in itself (more about that in my previous post).

Porter Mountain
Distance to trailhead: 31 mi / 47 min (same parking area as Pitchoff Mountain)
Elevation: 4059 ft / 1238 m
Order of height: 38
Vertical ascent: 1960 ft / 598 m (or 3275 ft / 999 m from Marcy Airfield via Blueberry Mt.)
Round trip distance: 5.6 mi / 9 km (or 9 mi / 14.6 km from Marcy Airfield via Blueberry Mt.)

Tuesday

Typically Ed Kanze gives a nature walk at White Pine Camp at 9:00. In spite of everything I have written about Ed here, here and here, I have yet to actually meet him. In just a few days, I will be able to start reading his book!! What I already know about Ed is that he is a great story teller and is very knowledgeable about the Adirondacks as well as the immediate area around Osgood Pond. And, I have every reason to believe that he is great with kids.

Ed Kanze, photo credit http://www.edwardkanze.com
In the afternoon, an additional activity could be to visit the Six Nations Indian Museum. I am sometimes critical of such museums as their authenticity can vary significantly. In this case, I am not concerned, as it it is family owned-Mohawk of Akwesasne. The description of the museum on their website is really interesting, and I believe that the story of the native peoples is an essential part of the essence of this park. The Museum is open until 5:00 PM.

Photo Credit: Six Nations Indian Museum
Wednesday

My biggest personal challenge is to climb Wright Peak. This is a task left undone since my childhood trip with ASTC. The planned climb was "A.I.W." which stands for Algonquin, Iroquois, Wright, all to be done in one day. These are the second, eighth and sixteenth highest peaks in the Adirondacks, respectively. Wright is a left turn off the trail to Algonquin, and Iroquois is reached by descending partway down the "back" side of Algonquin along a ridge to its peak. We managed Algonquin and Iroquois, and I have been longing to finish this set of mountains ever since.

I am still undecided as to whether I will be up to this challenge, much less extending it even more by proposing continuing on to Algonquin afterwards, much less Iroquois as well. Depending on how the climb on Monday went, we may instead decide to select one of the less challenging peaks among my list of suggestions.

Wright Peak from Mount Jo, Heart Lake, lower left, Algonquin, behind at right photo credit: Wikipedia

Wright Peak
Distance to trailhead from White Pine Camp: 31 mi / 51 min
Elevation: 4580 ft / 1396 m
Order of height: 16
Vertical ascent: 2400 ft / 732 m
Round trip distance: 7.6 mi / 12.2 km

Thursday

Wherever the trail takes us on Wednesday, there will be a strong focus on relaxation on Thursday, particularly considering everything on my list of 10 reasons not to leave White Pine Camp. Perhaps I can challenge someone to pool, table tennis, badminton, croquet or horseshoes. Maybe we can figure out what this game is that is called ladder ball. Depending on where our canoes took us on Sunday, I am tempted to head out in the respective other direction that we perhaps didn't get to before, including the waterway approach to ASTC.

Some of the sports gear at White Pine Camp
On this day I have one activity in mind that we would like to invite the entire group to join us for. I'll keep the details to myself though.

Friday

As our last full day at White Pine Camp, I would like to hit the trails again, but keep the focus family-friendly. Assuming that a significant portion of the group, young and old, are interested in hiking, I would like to set out for a destination that is interesting and achievable for the largest portion of our group possible.

Any of the following would be interesting:


Very possibly, we have already maxed out the enthusiasm for major hiking by the time Friday rolls around. In this case, the Visitor Interpretive Center is a great nearby place to go for outdoor activities. There are a number of nature trails with interpretive information which make for a nice easy hike which is also educational. There are also naturist led hikes and other programs. Also, we can personally recommend the butterfly house.

Mt. St. Regis

This mountain is the closest to White Pine Camp among my suggestions, with less than a 15 minute drive to the trailhead. It is predominately a gentle climb, with a steep bit at the end. At a round trip distance of 6.6 miles, it is probably at the longer end of family-friendly suggestions.  One particular bonus about this selection is that Mt. St. Regis has an historic fire tower. This has been in disrepair and not open to the public, but a plan to restore it was approved this past November, with restoration work scheduled to begin next summer. We might have the opportunity to see these works in progress.

Summit of Mt. St. Regis
Mt. St. Regis
Distance to trailhead from White Pine Camp: 6 mi / 14 min
Elevation: 2874 ft / 876 m
Vertical ascent: 1266 ft / 386 m
Round trip distance: 6.6 mi / 10.6 km

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Azure Mountain is another peak with a fire tower. It is a bit farther away from White Pine Camp, and the substantially shorter approach compared to St. Regis indicates that the climb will be more consistently steep along the way. This one comes recommended from a university classmate of mine, who climbed this peak with a three-generation-group, including her small children.

Azure Mountain topo map, source: cnyhiking.com

Azure Mountain
Distance to trailhead from White Pine Camp: 21 mi / 42 min
Elevation: 2518 ft / 767 m
Vertical ascent: 1000 ft / 304 m
Round trip distance: 2 mi / 3.2 km

Other suggestions are detailed in my previous post. Here is a list in brief, ordered from less to more challenging:

- Baker Mountain (already planned for Sunday!)
Mt. Jo
- Porter Mountain

Saturday

Check-Out is at 10:30. On our last visit to White Pine Camp, we rounded out our week with a historic tour of the camp, which was fascinating. In 2011, we made a departure day climb of Mt. Jo, before continuing on to Ottawa. Any number of activities I mentioned for Friday, except perhaps the most challenging climbs, are also potential Saturday activities for us.

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I am curious to see which of these activities we actually end up doing. Regardless, two things stand out in my mind: we have a real luxury of options, and more important, we will be among friends and family.

Saturday, December 13, 2014

Adirondack Mountain Club Blog

By now, anyone who has been following my blog knows that I enjoy writing about how much I love the Adirondacks. I am quite happy if I have been able to communicate that love to you and entertain you with sometimes quirky stories about Adirondack Swim and Trip Camp, fun things to do, mountains to climb or just hanging around White Pine Camp.

Every once in a while, I am reminded that there are others who are more eloquent at sharing their love for the Adirondacks than I. The youtube video series by Ed Kanze and his most recent book are cases in point. Neil Peart also writes with an eloquence that I can only dream of approaching, but he writes about the Laurentians (among many other things), so we will just consider him out of competition when it comes to the Adirondacks. As I mentioned in a previous post, the Laurentians have a very strong geological relationship to the Adirondacks and are located just north of the border in Canada. Recently, another writer has come to my attention who does a great job of sharing the essence of the Adirondacks in prose.

Jacqueline Keating, Photo credit adkmtnclub.blogspot
Jacqueline Keating's post on the Adirondack Mountain Club blog struck a chord with me for a number of reasons. First of all, she is too far away to just hop over for a weekend getaway. Thusly, her post is entitled "Love from a Distance." For me, it has many elements of a great post about the Adirondacks...

…a dramatic opening with a self-effacing sense of humor:
It was love at first sight. When it happened, I was too young to have ever had been in a serious relationship before, but I knew it was the real thing. When we were apart, I thought about nothing else. When we were together, there was nowhere else I wanted to be. I would anxiously count down the days until our next reunion, my heart rate accelerated and my eyes filled will (sic) happy tears whenever I caught that first glimpse after time spent apart.
…she reminds us that the Adirondack Mountains are much smaller than many others on this planet, but still they transfix us:
When I returned to work my second season with ADK, the High Peaks that were a mere third of the size of the mountains I had spent the previous months on were more spectacular than ever.
…and, she conjures up images of places that I have a very personal connection with:
My second-to-last day on the east coast before moving to Kodiak, Alaska, in the fall of 2013, I climbed Mt. Jo for my last look at Heart Lake to reflect on all the places that landscape has inspired me to explore.
Heart Lake viewed from the summit of Mt. Jo

She also mentions "a framed personal photo of Marcy Dam two weeks after Hurricane Irene," which is (hmm, was?) a dramatic gateway to the most popular destinations in the Adirondacks, including the crowned jewel, Mt. Marcy.

Here are our pictures from the site of Marcy Dam, before and after Hurricane Irene.
Marcy Dam, June 2011

Marcy Dam, June 2011

Post Hurricane Irene, August 2013
So, thanks goes out to Jacqueline Keating out there in cyberspace, for conjuring up memories about and emotions for our beloved Adirondacks in your lovely blog post!

Jacqueline has worked for the Adirondack Mountain Club, also known simply as "ADK." When we go hiking in the Adirondacks, ADK is a constant companion in ways which are visible and some which are not. They have interpreters that spend time at many popular locations in the park, including on the summit of Mt. Jo, to educate people about the wilderness and provide help when needed. They have a very strong mission to educate about conservation and safety. They perform trail maintenance, including the erection of a replacement bridge after Marcy Dam was destroyed, and they help mitigate the human impact on the park. Last but not least, they provide a wide range of services for hikers and campers, including maintaining the parking lot adjacent to Adirondack Loj, and they offer information about trail conditions, lodging, supplies and nourishment at their facilities. The five focus areas of ADK are:


Bridge constructed by ADK after the Marcy Dam Bridge was destroyed

Saturday, December 6, 2014

Dining Out near White Pine Camp

When we take our "big vacation" each year, we don't want to be compelled to eat out for the duration of our journey. That is another thing that we particularly like about White Pine Camp: a fully equipped kitchen which makes it possible for us to cook our own meals. To paraphrase one staffer: all you need to bring is your own food, and you are ready to go.

The typical White Pine Camp kitchen has everything you will need.
Accordingly, we are no experts on the finer points of the culinary establishments in the Adirondacks, as we only go out to dine in a few exceptional circumstances. These are typically one of three cases: on arrival or departure day, when we have expended all of our energy in the wilderness and want someone else to feed us, or if I am on a Holy-Grail-Pilgrimage to experience a part of American dining culture that I have been missing in Germany. My first recommended dining establishment falls into this third category.

Red Fox Restaurant, Photo from Red Fox Restaurant Facebook page

Red Fox Restaurant
5034 State Route 3
Saranac Lake, New York
Telephone 518-891-2127


Over the years, I have found evolving options to find steak entrées and even dedicated steakhouse restaurants in Germany, but I continue to lament the fact that you can't get prime rib here the way it is classically done in the USA, oven roasted and served sliced, like this:

The American Classic: Prime Rib. Photo Credit: tasty days.com
So, invariably, when traveling in the States, I am on a mission to find my next prime rib dinner. On our last visit to White Pine Camp, we paged through their collection of restaurant information and stumbled on to the Red Fox Restaurant, just outside the village of Saranac Lake. When we asked the management at White Pine Camp about this restaurant, they gave it a lackluster endorsement. They did however mention that it had been a long time since they had been there. The restaurant was destroyed by fire in 2003, and it appears that they really took the opportunity to start out fresh. We were quite pleased by our experience.

Particularly those coming from Europe will want to experience this restaurant as a classic example of old-school American family-style dining. The restaurant includes a full bar and several different dining areas. American-style service includes someone "bussing tables," making sure your (ice)water glass is kept full, and tempting you to fill up on freshly baked bread before your appetizer is served. These may all seem like mundane details, but it is a different style of service than what is common in Europe. Also, these individually owned and operated restaurants, where "family-style" reflects both on the clientele and the management, have become somewhat of a relic in the American dining experience as well. Chain restaurants have taken an increasingly large portion of the market share. It was refreshing to dine in this one-of-a-kind establishment that has a pleasant atmosphere, professional and friendly service, and attention to detail. Oh, and the prime rib was to die for. My wife rated her lobster dinner as "very delicious." The only caveat I would put on this restaurant is that it might be a tiny bit too "adult-like" to be appealing to the youngest in our 2015 group. I believe that my next recommendation is ideal for that group.

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Tail O' The Pup BBQ, Photo from J.M. Greizis flickr stream
Tail O' The Pup BBQ
1152 New York 86
Ray Brook
Telephone +1 518-891-0777

www.tailofthepupbbq.com

In contrast to my recommendation above, this establishment merits mention not as a culinary highlight, but much more as a piece of Americana. As you drive through Ray Brook on Route 86, you can't miss this place, decked out in Red, White and Blue with large signs advertising the location's attractions and a huge statue of a lobster with its claws reaching out as if to flag you into the next empty parking space. In addition to traditional barbecue entries and pulled pork with barbecue sauce, you can also get lobster, clams, Fish N' Chips and everything you would expect to find on the menu of a "greasy spoon" diner. There is an indoor dining area which doesn't come highly recommended, but those who eat here typically sit outside at one of the many red picnic tables, many of which are covered by a tent-like canopy, vaguely reminiscent of Oktoberfest. Live music is regularly featured. The reviews posted online run the gauntlet ranging from heartfelt endorsements to dire warnings.

I have passed this place countless times during and since my childhood as it lies between the Paul Smiths area where ASTC and White Pine Camp are located, and the hiking trails in the high peaks. Ray Brook is almost exactly half way between the villages of Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. With its bright colors and carnival like atmosphere, it is a sight that you remember, particularly because immediately before and after, you were enjoying the serenity of the wilderness. I have never actually stopped to eat here until our 2013 trip to the Adirondacks.

We had a long, wet day on the trail and were covered beyond our knees in mud. We knew that our grime factor vastly exceeded the limits for admittance into any respectable dining establishment, even among the less fussy locations that abound in this region. Too spent to cook a decent meal, we pondered what our alternatives might be. As we began to near the village of Saranac Lake, The Tail O' The Pup beckoned out to us to stop for dinner, and we complied. Dinner consisted of a burger each, one order of fries and one of onion rings. The service was friendly and everything was passable in quality, with one unpleasant surprise. Apparently this place is very proud of their BBQ sauce, not only is it omnipresent, with a bottle of the stuff on every table, but is a standard ingredient on pretty much all of their grilled foods ... including to our surprise, even the cheeseburgers. Still, it is possible to make a judicious selection from the many offerings to find something tasty for most, even if it is not one of the most healthful dining options (grease is a central attraction).

In spite of my limited endorsement of the menu items, I recommend this place for a certain entertainment factor that it has, for the fact that you will never be too grimy to eat here, and I believe that it is a good place to bring kids. Tail O' The Pup gives you the feeling that you have just walked into a cartoon, you won't have to worry about children being on their best behavior or if something gets spilled, and the service is relatively prompt.

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Paul Smith's Campus, Photo from paulsmiths.edu
My last two recommendations are for two dining establishments that I have never actually been to. They are both on the campus and part of the curriculum of Paul Smith's College, just across Osgood Pond from White Pine Camp. So, why I am I recommending TWO dining establishments that I have never actually been to? Well, for one thing, they are very enthusiastically recommended by the staff of White Pine Camp. Also, it is very much an expression of the tradition that Paul Smith himself started on this very site back in 1858, when he built a hotel here. The hotel burned down in 1930, but his son Phelps provided for the creation of this college which was established through the funds left in his will. I discuss the history of Paul Smiths in detail in an earlier blog entry. I believe that eating at a teaching facility such as this is a good way to support future chefs and get good value for money. Finally, there is no place closer to White Pine Camp to go out for a fine dinner.

Dining at Paul Smith's College, Photo from paulsmiths.edu
Since I don't have any personal experience with either of the two restaurants, I'll just insert the basic data here, and I encourage you to visit the website of each, which does an excellent job of presenting their offerings, and includes the current menus.

St. Regis Cafe at Paul Smith's College, Photo from paulsmiths.edu

St. Regis Cafe

Paul Smith's College
7833 New York 30
Paul Smiths, NY 12970


Lunch: Monday-Friday. Seatings at 11:30 a.m., noon and 12:30 p.m.
Dinner: Wednesday. Seatings at 5:30, 6 and 6:30 p.m.

Reservations are required.
(518) 327-6355
Reservations taken Monday-Friday, 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m.


The Palm at Paul Smith's College, Photo from paulsmiths.edu
The Palm at Paul Smith's College
Cantwell Hall
7833 New York 30
Paul Smiths, NY 12970


Friday and Saturday evenings
Seatings available at 5:30, 6:00, 6:30, 7:00, 7:30, 8:00 and 8:30 p.m.

Reservations are required.

For reservations: (518) 327-6443
EMAIL: THE PALM

Food preparation at Paul Smith's College, Photo from paulsmiths.edu

Friday, December 5, 2014

Curiously Adirondack - Catch Our Drift: Why Adirondackers Love Winter, Sort Of

Here is the final new addition to the "Curiously Adirondack" youtube video series by Ed Kanze and Josh Clement.

In this episode, local residents hunker down for a snowy winter.

The entire series consists of eight episodes, which can be found online:

Catch Our Drift: Why Adirondackers Love Winter, Sort Of
Fifty Beds, Two Lakes, And An Otter: Bartlett's Hotel In Its Heyday, 1854-1884
Intervale Lowlands: Biologist Larry Master Re-Wilds 135 Acres Near Lake Placid
What Does The Moose Say?
Adirondack Exercise Club
Dirt, Food, and Friends: Fledging Crow Farm Celebrates The Harvest
Asleep Beneath The Sod: Saranac Lake's Historic Pine Ridge Cemetery
Slimed! Adirondack Kids Love Amphibians!

Ed Kanze, photo credit http://www.edwardkanze.com


You can also find a link to a longer interview of Ed Kanze in my previous blog post here.

And, one of Ed Kanze's books is among my recommended books about the Adirondacks, which I list in this blog post.

Those joining us at White Pine Camp will have the opportunity to go on a nature walk with Ed.

White Pine Camp on Google Maps


View White Pine Camp in a larger map