Adirondacks News

Before I pause for the summer break, here are a few tidbits of online Adirondack news.

You may recall that I mentioned the naturalist Ed Kanze as well as the nature museum, The Wild Center, in recent blog entries. Both have popped up in online news at http://mountainlake.org.

I mentioned that Ed Kanze gives nature walks at White Pine Camp a few times a week. He is also a noted local journalist and contributor to Public Broadcasting Service. He is currently co-producing a series of short videos called "Curiously Adirondack," which will be posted online at http://mountainlake.org. The project is getting matching funds from PBS, and is described here, along with requests for donations to help fund the project.

Here is the video promoting the project:

The Wild Center is currently working on a skywalk to give their visitors a bird's eye view of the forrest. You can see an interesting report about the project here:

When I return, I will be back with another story along the lines of my most recent blog entry "10 Things to do / Places to go in the Adirondacks that don't involve (climbing) mountains." One of our friends at White Pine Camp noted that I had missed a place of historical interest, Essex, NY. More about that later!

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10 Things to do / Places to go in the Adirondacks that don't involve (climbing) mountains

For the most part, those joining us for our "90th birthday" get-together have said that they intend to spend the week relaxing at camp and enjoying what it has to offer, focusing on relaxation and time together and with their families. As I mentioned in my last post, they definitely make a good point. However, you know I can't just leave it at that. With more than 3000 lakes, 30,000 miles of streams and rivers, 2000 miles of hiking trails and 46 peaks over 4000 ft in elevation, plus the historical and cultural offerings this park, which at over 6 million acres is the largest park in the 48 contiguous United States, there is definitely more to the Adirondacks than White Pine Camp.

What follows is certainly not an exhaustive list, but highlights some of my favorite activities in the park, plus a few that I have had my eye on for a long time. I have intentionally left out the subject of mountain climbing as that will be the topic of a future entry.

So without further ado, here are some of my suggestions for free-time activities in the Adirondacks.

1. The Adirondack Museum

Location: 9097 State Route 30, Blue Mountain Lake, NY
Open: Open May 23 to October 13 7 days a week, including holidays 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
From White Pine Camp: 100 km south, 1:20 driving time

This is without a doubt my favorite museum in the park, and quite possibly among my favorite museums anywhere. This museum focuses on the people living in the park and gives a historical perspective of the park's use over time, from the trappers going back to colonial times, to logging, mining, attempts at farming, to the evolving recreational use of the park. The evolution of the park from a playground to the rich and famous complete with luxuriously appointed train coaches and guided wilderness expeditions to a family oriented summer vacation and camping destination as well as the home to many overnight summer camps for children is meticulously exhibited here. You will find exhibits exploring "outdoor recreation, boats and boating, transportation, the fine arts, work and industry, tourism, and community life." The museum's many interactive exhibits and regularly scheduled hands-on activities make the experience fun for young and old alike.

The only downside to this museum is that you will want to have several hours at your disposal to take in the many excellently presented topics plus well over 2 1/2 hours driving time round trip from White Pine Camp. Accordingly, our recommendation is to plan a visit to the camp either on your inward or outbound journey if you happen to be traveling via the southern part of the Adirondacks. If you do travel this route and don't have enough time to visit the museum itself (or if the $18 admission is more than you want to spend), take a quick pit stop in the museum's Visitor Center. You will be greeted by a beautifully displayed historic sailboat and have the opportunity to peruse the museum's extensive shop which has everything from T-Shirts and apparel to books, local arts and crafts and even local food items and more. You can get a further visual impression of the museum at their flickr photo stream.

Foto from the Adirondack Museum http://www.adkmuseum.org

2. The Wild Center

Location: 45 Museum Drive, Tupper Lake, NY 12986
Open: Memorial Day–Labor Day: 10AM–6PM, 7 days a week
From White Pine Camp: 47 km south, 45 min driving time

The Wild Center can be thought of as a complimentary museum to the Adirondack Museum. Here the focus is very much on flora and fauna as well as the geological makeup of the Adirondack park. We tend to feel that the museum's name is a bit unfortunate as it gives the false impression of some kind of thrills-and-chills amusement center. What you will find is a strong focus on education with a combination of live exhibitions - including otters, fish and birds - multi-media shows, guided tours and nature walks.

This museum is quite a bit closer to White Pine Camp, and at roughly 25 minutes beyond the village of Saranac Lake, could be combined with a trip into town to do some shopping for food and supplies.

3. Seaplane Tour

Location: The Village of Long Lake, at the intersection of NY Routes 30 and 28N
Open: Clear days, seven days a week May through October, call (518) 624-3931 for a reservation
From White Pine Camp: 80 km south, 1 hour+ driving time

As a child, I have passed the seaplanes docked on Long Lake many times and dreamt about going on one of these tours. It always seemed like such an extravagance, getting a "private" plane ride just to have a look around. A private website describing the experience estimates the cost at $60 for two people for a trip of about 15 minutes airtime. A nearby hotel gives some more information on their website, including the info that the planes can carry 5 adults plus the pilot.

In truth however, I am quite conflicted about such adventures as they are a bit at odds with why I love to come to the Adirondacks in the first place: to be close to nature, enjoy being away from motor vehicles, relax and generally slow down from the faster pace of day-to-day life. I also think of it as a bit extravagant, loud and anything but environmentally friendly. Still, the child in me says loudly "I-WANT-TO-GO-FOR-A-RIDE-IN-THAT!"

I have yet to take the plunge, but my wife hints at the idea that she MIGHT be willing to accompany me on such an outing. Stay tuned.

4. Paul Smith's College Visitor Interpretative Center (VIC)

Location: Route 30, one mile north of Paul Smith's College
Open: Daily in the summer months from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, interpretive trails from dawn to dusk
From White Pine Camp: 4 miles, 10 minute drive (Actually, if there is a public outlet from Osgood pond's west side, it would be a nice canoe trip then a short walk from there.)

We have been here a few times to visit the butterfly house and a few of the Bird Walks and Nature Walks. It is a great outing for those who want to experience nature without going in for a long hike. The extensive 3000-acre grounds contain "every habitat type found in the Adirondack Park with the exception of alpine vegetation." Also, the center is practically at the doorstep of White Pine Camp.

While researching for this entry, I discovered that the VIC has a lot more to offer that I realized.

Here is what the VIC website has to say about their programs:

"The 3,000-acre Paul Smith's College VIC (Visitor Interpretive Center) in Paul Smiths, New York, offers a wide variety of free and fee-based arts, sports, and educational programs throughout the year, including bird walks and nature walks, trail runs,children's educational programs, art exhibits, concerts, lectures, workshops, andnaturalist-led paddles. The VIC also hosts the annual Great Adirondack Birding Celebration on the first weekend in June. An adjacent Butterfly House featuresbutterflies and moths in all stages of development. The VIC has also developed amaple sugaring operation and participates in the New York State Maple Producers Association's Maple Weekends during the spring sugaring season."

5. Whiteface Mountain Veteran's Memorial Highway

Location: NYS Route 431, starting at NY 86
Open: July 1 - September 1: 9:00 am - 5:30 pm daily
From White Pine Camp: 52 km, 50 minutes drive

Here you can get the high-peaks experience with out the hard work. The 7.96 mi (12.81 km) toll road takes you to an elevation of 4610 ft (1405 m). The remaining distance to the summit of 4865 ft (1483 m) can be traveled on foot, or via the in-mountain elevator.  At the top, you are at the bald peak summit of the 5th highest peak in the Adirondacks, Whiteface Mountain, which follows Marcy, Algonquin, Haystack and Skylight.

6. The Adirondack Scenic Railroad

Location: 42 Depot St., Saranac Lake, NY
Open: Scenic Tours on Sat & Sunday, different themed tours on Wed - Friday, round trip tours start at 1:00 PM and have a 45 minute layover in Lake Placid see schedule
From White Pine Camp: 22 km / 22 minute drive

These tours offer a unique way to enjoy the Adirondack scenery and give a taste of the area's history. There were grand plans to connect the Adirondacks to the regional railway system which were achieved with limited success, at best. A significant function of this railway was to carry members of society to their great camps in luxury. The scenic railroad now runs as a not-for-profit corporation primarily by volunteers and enthusiasts.

Foto from Adirondack Scenic Railroad http://www.adirondackrr.com

7. Ice Cream at Donnelly's

Location: State Route 86, just south of State Route 186, Saranac Lake, NY
Open: Daily in the summer months 11:00 - 9:30 or until they run out!
From White Pine Camp: 15 km / 15 minute drive

If you only leave Camp once during your stay, it has to be for Ice Cream at Donnelly's. We make a habit of stopping here every time we drive by and make a detour to this destination when our travels don't put this stop between points A and B. You won't find any fancy Italian ice cream here and no cookie dough, sprinkles, chocolate sauce or any of that stuff, no. You have your choice of one flavor of soft ice cream each day, always twisted with vanilla (Monday - nut surprise, Tuesday - Red or Black Raspberry, Wednesday - Chocolate, Thursday - Fruit Surprise, Friday - Strawberry, Saturday/Sunday - Chocolate). And, its good!  In a future post, I'll explain why I refer to this place as the "Snake Pit."

Operating churning Ice Cream out of the same machine for 60 years as of 2013, this landmark is listed in the Register of Very Special Places.

8. Ausable Chasm

Location: 2144 Route 9, Ausable Chasm, NY 12911
Open: Summer hours are 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM
From White Pine Camp: 108 km west of camp, 1:30 drive time

As I previously mentioned, Ausable Chasm is a fascinating geological feature of the Adirondacks. Here you can go hiking, rafting, tubing or take a tour on the Adventure Trail. I have mixed feelings about all this. While these are all fun things to do, Ausable Chasm is one of the more visibly commercial enterprises in the park, and a bit pricy at that. If you stop here, don't be disturbed by the tour buses and the admission fees. Rest assured, most of the Adirondacks is not like this at all. And, please don't let me stop you from going on one of the tours. Believe me, this region is grateful for every source of revenue that it has.

It is a bit of a journey from White Pine Camp. If you are interested in this destination, plan on making your inward or outbound journey via the east. Ausable Chasm is not far from Lake Champlain which connects the Adirondacks with Vermont with a ferry service, which is an adventure in and of itself.

9. Jumping off Tommy's Rock

Location: Upper Saranac Lake, near to Saranac Inn and Country Club
Open: Subject to availability of a rental boat - consider daylight hours!
From White Pine Camp: 24 km south / southwest, 25 minute drive

When I was a camper at Adirondack Swim and Trip Camp, overnight canoe trips and the super-special one day sailing trip started off at Upper Saranac Lake. The first significant landmark passed was Tommy's Rock, where we got to take a break and jump off the cliff side into the lake. This is the stuff of legendary childhood memories. From a logistical point of view however, we would need to find a rental boat and navigate our way to the island to relive this experience.

Foto From Local Wiki http://localwiki.net/hsl/Tommy's_Rock

10. Swimming and Boating

This activity is one that can be done without leaving the immediate White Pine Camp area, but my focus here is on off-camp activities. Osgood Pond is connected to the Osgood River to the north, a series of canals leading to Church Pond to the southwest and a river leading to Jones Pond to the East.

Graphic from http://adirondackexplorer.org

While you can swim right off the island of the Japanese Tea House, the camp is increasingly affected by regulations, so the swimming area is now in a roped off area. Keep in mind that the Adirondacks have 3,000 lakes and 30,000 miles (48,000 km) of streams and rivers. Accordingly, while there are many public swimming areas, I believe that the best places to go for a swim are those more remote and off the beaten path.

A friend recently asked about swimming "au naturale" in the Adirondacks, aka skinny-dipping. For my European friends, the first piece of cultural information is that public swimming areas and lakes in resort areas with public traffic generally don't have accommodations for clothing-optional or nudist swimming areas. And, Americans are a lot more squeamish about bearing all, even among young children. Even very young girls are typically expected to keep their chests covered as well.

Having said that, this typically doesn't apply to the wild, remote areas of the vast park. When I was a camper at Adirondack Swim and Trip Camp, their official policy was that the early morning "polar bear" swim, the evening "midnight dip" (read that: just before dusk) and the weekly wash-up bath in the pond were all clothing-optional. Washing in the pond (using a biodegradable soap) was later cancelled out of environmental concerns. Keep in mind we were a boys-only camp. In later years, the camp had a female swimming director. To encourage the campers not to be uncomfortable about skinny dipping when she was on duty, she explained to the campers (ages 8 - 14), that they could ask her to turn around while they disrobed, jumped in or got out of the pond, and she also presented to us a retrofitted pair of sunglasses which had the bottom half covered with masking tape so she could perform her lifeguard duties without seeing our "sensitive areas." Also, when we went on overnight trips climbing mountains or canoeing, we were gently reminded that anyone wishing to go skinny dipping was free to do so. Adirondack Swim and Trip Camp is no longer a summer camp for boys, but rents their cabins out in a similar fashion to White Pine Camp. It is still run by the same family that ran the camp when I was a child, and they are the most dominant presence on Jones Pond (there are only a very few other cabins on the pond). So, if you care to go for a skinny dip but are concerned about offending the sensitivities of the other guests at White Pine Camp or the other residents along Osgood Pond, you need go no further than the next body of water, Jones Pond. You can get there either via canoe or a public parking space on Jones Pond Road. Anyone who sees you swimming as-nature-intended there typically won't be alarmed.

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10 Reasons Not To Leave White Pine Camp

Typically while in the Adirondacks, we like to alternate between physically challenging activities, like mountain climbing, and something more relaxing. This can be anything from dangling our feet in the nearest pond to visiting one of the park's excellent museums, like these two examples. While there are so many things we love to do in the Adirondacks, on or off the mountains, at White Pine Camp we have this tremendous urge not to leave camp in the first place. To maximize our in-camp time, we typically stop off in Saranac Lake to do our grocery shopping before checking in.

Here are ten reasons why you won't want to leave White Pine Camp, and don't have to …

1. Adirondack Chairs

If you are looking for a trademark image of the Adirondacks, the Adirondack Chair is as good as any.

2. Common Buildings

The buildings and architecture of White Pine Camp could be a list in and of itself, from The Japanese Tea House - the Camp's most famous structure, to the Old Boathouse - found on the Camp's logo, to the Great Room - complete with a massive fireplace, leather sofa and a collection of hunting trophies. But the list is incomplete without the "new" (1926) Boathouse - with deck and Ping Pong table, the bowling alley - complete with pool table, and my personal favorite: the tennis house.

3. Sports and Recreation

I have already mentioned bowling, ping pong and pool. The camp also has an ample supply of things to throw and games to play on the camp grounds, including among others: soccer balls, frisbees, volleyball, badminton, croquet, horseshoes and ladder ball.

4. Boating on Osgood Pond

Hmm, this activity poses the question about where White Pine Camp ends and The Rest Of The Adirondacks begins. Considering that the canoes, kayaks and rowboat are part of the camp's offerings, and considering that you can either see the camp itself or part of its massive shoreline from most of Osgood Pond, I'll count this activity as being part of White Pine Camp. Keep in mind though, that you can take an 18 km canoe trip through connecting rivers and canals that includes Church Pond and Jones Pond. Jones Pond and Adirondack Swim and Trip Camp will be the subject of a future post.

There is an excellent article on Adirondack Explorer by Phil Brown titled "Osgood as it gets," that I highly recommend, but you will need to set up an account to view it (you can do that in about a minute, using fake information). I am resisting the temptation to "borrow" the story or the useful map included in it.

5. Swimming

6. Fire!

Nearly every cabin and common use building has either a fireplace or wood burning stove. Add to that fire pits and charcoal grills, all completely stocked, and you have one of the most important raw materials for an evening at camp: FIRE. So snuggle up with a good book, marshmallow on a stick (best eaten as s'mores), or throw on a steak! Also good for keeping the billions of mosquitos at bay.

7. Nature Walks

As much as I love the sights, sounds and even the smells of camp, I am no expert on flora and fauna. And, there is a lot to be told about the natural surroundings at White Pine Camp and the Adirondacks in general. We have seen eagles, mergansers, beavers, chipmunks, deer and all forms of little critters. The White Pine namesake of the camp also has a special relevance to this place and its history. We have yet to have our first (live) bear encounter, and the long missed moose making its return to the Adirondacks has yet to pay us a visit. I won't even get started on fish as that would bring my lack of knowledge too much into focus.

Thankfully, there are others who are better in this department than I. The naturalist Ed Kanze gives an instructional walk each Tuesday morning.

8. Historical Camp Tour

One of the many things that can be said about White Pine Camp is that History Took Place Here. Dating back to 1907, the camp harks back to the era of the "Great Camp," where the industrialists and socialites of the day would spend their summer months. With its soaring rooflines, fascinating use of windows and "Brainstorm Siding," White Pine Camp's architecture has influenced building design throughout the Adirondacks. The camp also is referred to as the "Summer White House," because President Calvin Coolidge spent his summer here in 1926. White Pine Camp also played a cameo role in the diplomatic maneuverings leading up to World War I, complete with a whiff of scandal. I'll leave that story for the tour, which is offered Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Yes, Calvin Coolidge did sleep here!

9. Time Together

Up until now, White Pine Camp has been a special place for the-two-of-us to be together. We are very much looking forward to sharing it with a circle of friends and family, whether as the entire group en masse, with a few others touring about or spending time with the children - giving the parents some time to themselves.

10. Nothing

For all that White Pine Camp has, a significant part about what we love about White Pine Camp are a number of things that it doesn't have: television, telephone, traffic, street lights, reliable cellphone service. Camp is a 35 acre forested area with a long shoreline on Osgood Pond, two miles off the main road. How much is 35 acres? Hmm … about 140,000 square meters or just under 22 city blocks. I like the last comparison as it is the best contrast to what to expect at White Pine Camp.

As much as we are looking forward to sharing this place with others, we are also looking forward to spending some time alone, together. I am sure the others are, too.

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Getting There Is Half The Fun

For our friends coming from Europe, a central aspect your approach to White Pine Camp will be an airport.

Here are the nearest airports to White Pine Camp with direct service from Europe:

1. Montréal QC, Canada: Pierre Elliot Trudeau International Airport  clocks in at 160 km and just over 2 hours travel time to White Pine Camp.


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2. Ottawa ON, Canada, Macdonald-Cartier International Airport will bring you to within a little more than 2 1/2 hours travel time to White Pine Camp at a distance of a little more than 200 km.


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Both approaches from the north will take you through some of the most remote areas in this corner of North America. These routes are both very leisurely ways to get to camp, taking you through very rural countryside, crossing the St. Lawrence River on or before the US boarder, depending on which route you take.

We can definitely recommend Ottawa for an overnight visit either on your inward or outbound journey. It is the capital of Canada and the place where the English and French speaking parts of the country meet. We enjoyed the city's cultural and museum offerings, the historic Rideau Canal and the European Vibe that this city has. If you are here for a little longer and are into Cold War history, we highly recommend a visit to the Diefenbunker Museum.

When planning your route, you may want to use an "open-jaws" strategy, flying into one airport and returning home from another. Just remember two things: you will have to return your car in the same country from which you started, and there will be a one-way fee which is typically not included in your main rental fee. We have paid up to $300 for one way fees, but have found it to be well worth it since it saves us from having to retrace our route, maximizing our vacation time.

The airports in Boston, NYC, Newark and Toronto are all similarly distant from White Pine Camp, and will take you somewhere around 5 1/2 hours to get there.

3. Boston Logan International Airport: 530 km / 5:30


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Don't get too distracted by what you see on the google map that I imbedded showing a flight from Boston to White Pine Camp. This is definitely an option, and you can get a one-way fare for somewhere between $95 and $155, with up to three flights a day on Cape Air, departing Boston at 9:20 AM, 1:50 PM and 6:20 PM. Don't choose this option if you have an aversion to small aircraft, you will be flying in a Cessna 402. BTW, Infants under 2 years of age can travel for free if seated on the lap of an adult passenger. Your destination airport is the Saranac Lake Airport (SLK), which is just under 20 minutes from White Pine Camp. You can either get a rental car from Hertz, or we can pick you up upon arrival.

If you prefer to travel by car, you can either travel via Massachusetts, then Albany NY, or through New Hampshire and Vermont. We thoroughly enjoyed the latter on our last trip, making a one night stop in each State on our way. We can recommend a few cozy bed-and-breakfasts to stay at if you are interested in this route. Montpelier VT, is an interesting visit to small town America, the smallest state capitol in the USA, with less than 8000 residents. We recommend taking tour of the Vermont State House and eating a burger at the Coffey Corner Diner. Yes, there are more posh places to eat in Montpelier, but we really enjoyed this typical diner looking out on Main St., small town, USA.

On your way, stop off at the original Ben & Jerry's Factory and take a tour, or just stop for some Ice Cream. We also recommend traveling via Burlington VT, to take the Ferry across Lake Champlain.

This route will take you via Ausable Chasm, a fascinating geological feature of the Adirondacks. Here you can go hiking, rafting, tubing or take a tour on the Adventure Trail. I have mixed feelings about all this. While these are all fun things to do, Ausable Chasm is one of the more visibly commercial enterprises in the park, and a bit pricy at that. If you stop here, don't be disturbed by the tour buses and the admission fees. Rest assured, most of the Adirondacks is not like this at all. And, please don't let me stop you from going on one of the tours. Believe me, this region is grateful for every source of revenue that it has.

4. New York, NY JFK International Airport (or alternately Newark Liberty Int. Airport): 515 km / 5:30


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This is likely to be one of the first places to come to mind among those considering a trip to the Adirondacks from Europe - fly in to New York City!  Certainly, there is no substitute for Manhattan and all that NYC has to offer, but this route does bring a few challenges with it. If you plan to spend a few days here, then travel north by car, I would suggest not picking up the car until you are ready to depart. You may also consider taking an Amtrak train either to Albany or Saratoga Springs, then picking up a rental car for the rest of your journey. Or, you could travel via Amtrak train to Lake Placid, NY. This involves taking the 8:15 AM train from Penn Station to Westport, NY, then continuing by bus transfer to Lake Placid, arriving just after 3:00 PM. We can pick you up there.

5. Toronto Pearson International Airport: 5:20 / 506 km (or 7:00 / 685 km if you travel via Niagara Falls)


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I have never actually traveled along the northern shore of Lake Ontario east of Toronto, but Pearson Airport has been part of my travel itinerary many times. First of all, it is the closest international airport to my parent's home, and we have used this airport in connection with Ottawa, coming in to one and departing from the other. Toronto is also a nice city to visit, Canada's most populous city, looking over on Lake Ontario. The alternate route via Niagara Falls adds quite a bit of travel time to White Pine Camp, but you could potentially break that up with a stop at my parent's house. I tend to think of Niagara Falls as the largest tourist trap in New York State, some call it the World's Greatest Tourist Trap. But many people believe that it is one of the places you have to visit. I'll let you decide.

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